Surfed at chun's in the late afternoon yesterday and it was really small. 1foot with some bigger waves once in a while. it's still small all over the island.
夕方チャンズリーフで入ったけど波が小さかった。１ftくらいでごくたまーに大きめのセットが入る程度。ハワイ全体がスモールだね。
No surf shots but the conditions were good and the sunset had some nice color. Going to Japan today to do a FADE promo. Looking foward to seeing my friends there. Hope the waves are good because I have to get motivated to surf in freezing cold water !!
サーフシーンは撮れなかったけど、サンセットの空の色がヤバい位キレイだった。今日からFADEのプロモーションのため日本に行くよ。みんなに合えるのが楽しみ。冷たい水でサーフィンする覚悟を決めていくからには波が良いことを祈るよ！！
Laniakea has been fun the last few days. about 2-3 ft and nice conditions.
ラニアケアはここ数日２−３ftのグッドコンディション。
This is one of the bigger size sets that was coming in once in awhile.
ごくたまに写真のような大きめのセットも入ってくる。
I went to Haleiwa later during the day with my neighbors. The waves were only about 1 to 2 ft but good for the kids.
近所の友達とその日のうちにハレイワに移動。１−２ftだったけどキッズには良い波だったね。
Don't walk on the reef at Haleiwa !! If you do you might be picking uni spines out of your feet !!
ハレイワのリーフは危険だ！うっかりするとウニのえじきになるぞ！
This fish is called ( Humu humu nuku nuku a puaa ). i've been having fun with my olympus 790 camera. Just put it in my pocket, go surf and shoot whenever I want.
この魚は「ふむふむぬくぬくぷあー」と呼ばれてる。いつもポケットにオリンパスの水中カメラを入れてサーフしてるからいつでも写真を撮って楽しめるんだ。
Every year we get together at our neighbors house for Easter. The kids have a easter egg hunt and play all kinds of games.
毎年近所の住人達でイースターを祝う。子供達はイースターエッグやらゲームで遊んでるよ。
Here's the water balloon tossing contest. Kai and our next door neighbor duke won !
これは水風船投げコンテスト。カイと近所のデユークが勝った。
Kai on the left and Koa on the far right.
左がカイで、右奥がコア。
This was just before a boy's against girls scavenger hunt. The girls won !!
男子対女子は女子の勝ち！
Here's the kids that live around us. All getting big fast !!
近所の子供達はみんな大きくなったよ！はやいね。
Sunrise at Laniakea. I surfed really early this morning. Waves were only about 1sometimes 2 ft but perfect conditions. The whole island is small now but some swells coming next week again.
ラニアケアの朝日。早朝からサーフィンしたよ。波は１−２ftだったけどコンディションは最高。ハワイ全域でサイズは小さめだけど来週にはサイズアップしそう。
stand up paddleboarders ( SUP ) are all over the place now. Some of my friends do it and looks like their having fun. There was this guy from Brazil catching all the waves which was bumming everyone out. Only takes one.
最近流行りのスタンドアップパドルボード。友達もやってるけど楽しそうだね。ブラジルから来た彼はほとんどの波を取っちゃった。
Tomoko with more SUP'S in the background.
奥さんのトモコもSUPに囲まれちゃった。
I was on the side catching the waves that came in wide staying away from the SUP'S and having fun. My 6'0 surftech goes good on small days like this. Pretty thick so its easy to get waves, its quick and it plains through sections good.
僕もSUPを避けるように入ったよ。波の小さい日には６’０のサーフテックが調子いい。厚めだからテイクオフもらくだし、フラットなセクションもスムースにつなげるよ。
Koa's baseball team won the Pinto Cup over the weekend ! They are the first team in the Mililani pinto division to win going undefeated throughout the whole season ever since the Pinto Cup started !! That's Kai in the background with the # 1 finger in the air.
コアの野球チームがピントカップで見事優勝！開催以来初のシーズン負けなしの優勝だ。一番後ろでカイもナンバーワンポーズ。
Koa receiving his metal.
コアがメダルを受取っているところ。
Koa and I with the Championship trophy ! The kids did a great job and i'm stoked for all of them !!
コアと僕でチャンピオントロフィーと記念撮影。みんなすごく良くやったね！
Nick sent me some pics that he got from all the good waves that he's been getting lately. This one's at backdoor.
ニックが写真を送ってくれた。どれも良い波だね。これはバックドア。
Haleiwa, i think ??
たぶんハレイワかな？
Rocky point. For more on Nick check out his website @ www.nickmita.com
All photo's by Gordinho.
これはロッキー。ニックのウェブサイトにアクセスしてみて。もっと見れるよ。
http://www.nickmita.com/
写真はゴルディーノ。
koa's team the Tennesse Volenteers went 14-0 this season. This is another thing I do besides surf, help coach his team. The Mililani pinto cup tournament is this weekend and we are the # 1 seed. I hope we can make it to the championship game and win it all !!!
コアのチームは14勝0敗で終了。サーフィンの傍らこのチームのコーチをしている僕。ミニラニトーナメントでは第1シードでチャンピオンシップに出て勝てる強豪だよ。
After the last game of the regular season the boy's had some fun and got to hit a pinata.
レギュラーシーズン最後の試合も終わって子供たちは羽を伸ばしてるよ。
Koa and his new 4 wheel " fusion ".
コアの最新マシン「fusion」
Some shots Gordinho got of me at OTW and Backdoor. There's not much because I didn't get much but always mahalo for the pics !!
オフザウオールとバックドアのショットはゴルディーノが撮ってくれたもの。あんまり乗ってないから数は少なかったけど、いつもありがとう！
Went to backdoor in the late afternoon. No wind and glassing 3-4 footers. Check out these photos.
午後遅くにバックドアに行った。風もなく３−４ｆｔの面ツル。写真見たらわかるけど。
The sun was about to set the waves were cherry for as far as you could see.
日没間近。写真で見るよりも実際はすごい波
Another beautiful day in Hawaii , waves are about 4-6 ft with sunny and perfect conditions. i drove up to sunset and it was really nice !!
４−６ｆｔの快晴でパーフェクトコンディションのハワイの最高の日。サンセットまでチェックに行ったらすごく良かったよ。
Then I checked Rocky point and it was good there too.
ロッキーポイントもグー。
Franco from Hawaiianswell.com was shooting Rocky's
ハワイアンスウェルドットコムのフランコはロッキー狙い。
Then we took a look at OTW and Backdoor. Nice conditions but kind of closing out.This was a good one.
オフザウオールとバックドアも見に行った。いいんだけどクローズ気味。写真はましなやつ。
Some big sets at backdoor. Check how small the water cameraman is !
バックドアはでかいセットが来てた。水中カメラマンの小ささから想像してみて！
We surfed at Haleiwa for a little while. Perfect 3-5 ft. and not crowded.
しばらくハレイワで入った。３−５ｆｔですいていてパーフェクト
Stanley Matsumoto , owner of Matsumoto shave ice was hanging out.
松本シェーブアイスのオーナーのスタンリー松本
koa's 8 years old today !! Happy Birthday !!! The kids are growing fast and time is flying !
コアが8歳になったよ！子供の成長は早いね。あっという間だよ！
Kai gave him $20.00 and he's always stoked to get money !!
カイが20ドルプレゼントしたらめちゃくちゃ喜んでた！
Went surfing at Off The Wall today. I haven't surfed there sooo long and I know why. I was out for about 1 1/2 hours and caught like 4 waves. That had to be my worst session this year. There were some good waves but I didn't get um. I surf Haleiwa alot and I have fun ! i'd probably catch 20 waves at Haleiwa to 1 wave at Off The Wall. I'll probably go to OTW sometime again but if it's crowded forget it.
オフザウオールでサーフィンしたよ。理由があってめったに行かないんだけどね。それは、1時間半も入っててたったの4本しか乗れないから。今年のワースト記録だよ。いい波は来てるんだけどなぜか乗れないんだ。それに比べてハレイワは楽しいよ！だってオフザウオールで1本乗る間にハレイワだったら20本は乗れる。オフザウオールは混んでなかったらたまには行ってみようかなという程度だね。
Shuji Kasuya was there....
糟谷修二参上！
Kai is on break from school so I told him while he's on the beach to take some shots.
学校終わりのカイにビーチから写真とってもらった。
Kirby Fukunaga checking it out after breaking his 6'8".
カーヴィー福永は６’８の板が壊れちゃった。
Sean Moody was also there.
シーンムーディーもいたよ
Kai's bento ....
カイの弁当
Something you usually don't see much at OTW....
めったに見られない光景も
After OTW I took Kai surfing at Haleiwa. He hasn't surfed much because he fractured his ankle in December and its just getting good now. He was having fun surfing again ! I took my Olympus 790 sw waterproof digital camera out and tried to get some shots.
オフザウオールの帰りにハレイワに寄った。カイは12月に足首痛めてからほとんどサーフィンしていなかったけど、だんだん良くなって、サーフィン復帰してるよ。オリンパスの水中カメラで撮ってみた。
Kai inbetween sets...
セット間のカイ。
its really hard to get good shots in the water !!!!
水の中でいい写真撮るのって難しいね！！
While we were out a turtle came cruising by us a got a good shot with kai...
海がめが寄ってきたのでカイと2ショット！
tetsu urayama came over from Japan yesterday and brought a wetsuit over for me. Thanks Hotline !!! it fits perfect !!!!
浦山哲也が日本から来て僕のウェットスーツを届けてくれた。ありがとうホットライン！サイズはぴったりだったよ！
This girl was getting some good waves and was smiling the whole time...
この娘はずっと笑顔でいいなみ乗ってた。
Hold your breath !!!
がまん！！
Self pic....
自分撮り！
The waves and weather have been nice for almost a month now !!!!! More waves coming as i write this and should be in the 6ft plus range tomorrow !!!!!!
波も天気もずーっと良くて、ここ1ヶ月は続いてる。これ書いてる今も波はあって、明日には６ｆｔだって！
This is another thing that I like to do once in a while. Surfing is my passion and what I love to do most but its good to get away and do something different and I like the rush and excitement from riding a motorcycle. Here I am with 2 good friends of mine Kevin Chow on the far left and Teru Ohashi in the middle. I've known Kevin for about 30 years and he lived 2 houses away from me growing up in Wahaiwa. He's a fireman captain and now lives in the same town as me, Mililani. I've known Teru for a long time too. He's from Japan but has lived in Hawaii for maybe about 25 years. He's a good and well known shaper and can shape all kinds of boards.
サーフィンが一番好きだけど他のこともやんなきゃ。ってことでモトクロスでエキサイティングに走るのも趣味の１つなんだ。写真は２人の友達と撮ったもの。左がケビンで右がテル。ケビンとは３０年来の知り合いで同じミニラニで２軒となりの家に住んでる。彼は消防士でキャプテンをやってるんだ。テルは日本からハワイに移住して２５年経つ。彼はシェーパートしても活動してるよ。
Stacy, Kevins friend on the left. Also a fireman.
左はケビンの友達のスタッキーで、彼も消防士。
Here's Kevin riding Stacy's bike up a hill he could'nt make. Right after this the bike went flying out of his hands and we had to pull it up the rest of the way.
ケビンのライディング。スタッキーは丘を駆け上がるもメイクできず、そのあと吹っ飛んでしまった！
My bike , a 2004 yz 250. Fun and lots of power !!
これは僕のマシン。パワーもあって楽しいよ！
Aloha to Franco and hawaiianswell.com for these pics from a classic day at Haleiwa !!
HAWAIIANSWELL.COMのフランコありがとう！ハレイワのクラシックデイの写真だよ！
It aws soooo fun this day. 3-5 ft and as good as it gets.
３−５ftのゲットもラクチンなファンデーだった。
Check out how glassy it was ! It was like this from the early morning to about 11:00 than the wind started to blow light onshore but the waves were still good.
面も最高でしょ！午前１１時位からオンショア吹きはじめたものの波は良くて影響なし！
