The biggest swell so far this year. Laniakea was 4-6 ft this morning and lining up good ! Finally got to surf some waves with size ! This guy tried a late take off and ended up eating it and holding his breath for a while !

今年一番のスウェルだね。ラニアケアは今朝４−６ftのいい波！やっとサイズある波でサーフできたって感じ！写真の彼はレイトテイクオフからメイク！


Lots of waves early and then it started to drop. Surfed for a good 3 hours. It got crowded but for some reason the waves were coming to me every time I got back out. My lucky day !!

早い時間帯は結構波数あったけど少しサイズダウン。3時間たっぷり楽しんだ。混んでいたけど、なぜかラインに戻る度に自分のところに波が回ってきてラッキーだったよ！！


Hardly any pros out ! Kekoa Uemura paddled out and got some good ones.

ほとんどプロサーファー。ケコアウエムラも入ってていい波乗ってた。


weird angle pic.

絶妙なアングルでしょ。


another eat it !

これもメイクしてた！


It got smaller later in the morning but the sun came out and conditions were still nice.

少し時間が経って太陽も出てきた午前中でもまだまだいいコンディションをキープしてた。


Some waves were breaking from the point all the way through to the inside !

このポイントは至る所で割れていて、インサイドでもサーフできたよ！